Appetizer Recipes

Abroath Smokie Pâté
Anchoyade (Hot Anchovy Canape)
Angels on Horseback
Argentinean Meat Pies (Empanadas)
Artichoke Bottoms Gratinées
Artichoke Bottoms Tahitian
Artichoke Pâté
Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp
Bagna Cauda
Baked Clams
Baked Kibbe
Beer Cheese
Bleu Cheese Log
Boiled Potatoes with Caviar
Brazilian Onion Toasts
Broiled Clams
Buck Rabbit
Buffalo Chicken Wings
Buttered Radishes
Cajun Popcorn
Caponata (Eggplant with Capers)
Carpaccio
Catalonian Bread with Tomatoes (Pan amb Tomat)
Ceviche
Chana Dal (Curried Chick-Peas)
Chicken Flautas
Chicken Satay (Malaysian Skewered Chicken with Spicy Peanut Sauce)
Chilaquiles
Chili con Queso
Chinese Egg Rolls
Chinese Five-Spice Eggs (Wu Xiang o Dan)
Chinese Salt and Pepper Shrimp
Chinese Steamed Pork Dumplings (Shao-Mai)
Chopped Liver
Clams Casino
Crab Cakes
Crab Malabar (Kekada Chat)
Crab Quesadillas
Crostini with Gorgonzola and Honey
Danish Bacon and Egg Cake (Flaeskeaeggekage)
Danish Cured Salmon (Gravlax)
Danish Liver Pâté (Leverpostej)
Dutch Meatball Hors d'Oeuvre (Bitterballen)
Eggplant "Caviar"
Eggy Bread with Cheese
Egyptian Lentils (Fool Mudammas)
Escargots a la Bourguignonne
Figs with Ham (Figos com Presunto)
Fondue Neuchateloise
Forfar Bridies
French Chicken Liver Pâté (Pâté de Foie de Volaille)
Fried Green Tomatoes
Fried Squid
German Cheese "with Music" (Kase "mit Musik")
German Herring Rolls (Rollmopse)

More appetizer recipes >

Abroath Smokies are hot-smoked haddock, and I doubt you will find them in your local supermarket (unless of course you happen to live in Scotland). My version of this classic Scottish appetizer calls for any cooked (i.e. not cold-smoked), smoked fish available in your area.

Abroath Smokie Paté

6-8 oz (170-225 g) cooked, smoked haddock
or other cooked, smoked fish
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted
4 Tbs (60 ml) cream cheese
1 tbs (15 ml) lemon juice, or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste
Chopped parsley for garnish

Remove and discard the skin and bones from the smoked fish. Break up the fish and combine with the remaining ingredients. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Serve garnished with chopped parsley and with crackers, melba toast, or thinly sliced fresh bread. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish is often served in bistros and cafes, especially in coastal areas. Before you turn your nose up at anchovies, these are not the salty, dry little things found on pizza. This preparation is sophisticated and down-home at the same time.

Anchoyade (Hot Anchovy Canape)

2 two ounce cans (approx. 100 g total) flat anchovy fillets
2 garlic cloves, chopped fine
1 tsp tomato paste
1 to 1 1/2 Tbs olive oil
2 tsp lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 to 10 slices (1/2 in., 1.5 cm) fresh French bread
1 tsp finely chopped fresh parsley.
Drain the anchovies of the oil and soak in cold water for 10 minutes. Remove from the water and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels. In a small bowl or mortar, combine the anchovies, garlic, and tomato paste and mash with a wooden spoon or pestle until very smooth. Dribble the oil in slowly, stirring constantly, until the mixture becomes thick and smooth. Stir in the lemon juice and black pepper. Under your oven's broiler toast the slices of French bread lightly on one side. While the bread is still warm spread the anchovy mixture on the un-toasted side, pressing it into the bread with the back of a fork or spoon. Place on a baking sheet and bake in a preheated 500F (260C) oven for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer.

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Here is one of the more than 15 recipes listed under the heading "Oyster" in "Larousse Gastronomique," one of my all-time favorite cookbooks.

Angels on Horseback

24 oysters out of their shells
Freshly ground pepper to taste
8 slices thinly sliced bacon
Toast triangles

Season the oysters with pepper. Cut the slices of bacon into 3 pieces and wrap each oyster in a piece of bacon. Thread them on skewers and broil (grill) for 2 minutes, turning them once. Serve on toast triangles. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish takes me back to my childhood as much as any other. It is virtually impossible to go to a party or social function in Uruguay or Argentina without being served these delicious meat pies. They are great as a luncheon item, or served as a cocktail snack. Please try this recipe, I guarantee you'll love it.

Argentinean Meat Pies (Empanadas)

2 frozen pie shells (pastry type dough
OR 10 oz (280 g) frozen puff pastry
OR your favorite pie pastry recipe
1 cup diced cooked roast beef, or cooked ground beef
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 tsp (1 ml) dried thyme
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cumin
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper, or to taste
1 tomato, peeled and chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) raisins
1/4 cup sliced pimiento stuffed green olives
2 hard cooked eggs, chopped

If using frozen dough, allow to thaw. Cut pastry into rounds of any size from about 2 inches (5 cm) to 5 inches (12 cm) and set aside. In a small skillet saute the beef, onion, and garlic in butter over a moderate flame for 5 minutes. Add the salt, pepper, thyme, cumin, cayenne, and tomato and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Soak the raisins in boiling water for 10 minutes, then drain thoroughly. Add the raisins, olives, and eggs, and stir to combine. Divide the filling among the pastry rounds. Moisten the edges of the pastry with water or milk and fold in half over the meat, sealing the edges with the tines of a fork. Bake on an ungreased baking sheet in a preheated 400F (200C) oven for 20 to 25 minutes, until well browned. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 6 to 15, depending on size.

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The most laborious part of this recipe is opening the can of artichokes, so get ready to put up your feet and sip something cool while they cook.

Artichoke Bottoms Gratinées

1 15-ounce (420 g) can artichoke bottoms, rinsed,
drained, and patted dry
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3/4 cup (180 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
1 tsp (5 ml) lemon juice
1/2 tsp (2 ml) grated lemon peel
1/4 cup (60 ml) pine nuts (pignoli)

Arrange the artichoke bottoms concave side up in a lightly greased baking dish. Combine the remaining ingredients except for the line nuts in a small bowl and stir to combine. Spoon the cheese mixture into the artichoke bottoms and sprinkle the pine nuts on top. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 20 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.

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This side dish is one my mother discovered at Trader Vic's restaurant back in the fifties, and it has been one of her favorites ever since. Her re-creation is below, since to my knowledge they have not published the recipe in any of their cookbooks.

Artichoke Bottoms Tahitian

4 to 6 artichoke bottoms (canned or cooked fresh)
1 package frozen (or 2 cups fresh) French cut green beans
2 Tbs vegetable oil
1/2 cup thinly sliced onion
1/4 cup chicken stock
1 cup diced fresh tomato
1/2 tsp curry powder
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup slivered almonds, toasted

Saute the onion in the oil over moderate heat until translucent. Add the tomato, green beans, curry powder, salt, pepper, and chicken broth. Simmer until beans are tender. Meanwhile heat artichoke bottoms in microwave or in broth on stove top. Fill the artichoke bottoms with the bean mixture and sprinkle almonds on top. Serves 4 to 6.

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Even though I'm an artichoke fan and will eat them cooked just about any way, this dish is particularly appealing because it's quick, easy, and oh so delicious.

Artichoke Pâté

1 15-oz (425 g) can artichoke hearts or bottoms, drained
4 oz (110 g) cream cheese at room temperature
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh parsley
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped fresh chives
2 Tbs (30 ml) chopped black olives
2 Tbs (30 ml) diced pimiento or fresh red bell pepper

Combine the artichokes, cream cheese, Parmesan, lemon juice, garlic, salt, pepper, and optional cayenne in an electric food processor and process until smooth. Stir in the parsley, chives, olives, pimiento, and spoon into a serving bowl. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving. Serve with raw vegetables, crackers, pita bread, or melba toast. Serves 8 to 12.

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Sometimes less is more, and this simple but elegant appetizer will delight your guests over the holidays and leave you time to enjoy their company.

Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp

12 whole large shrimp, shelled and deveined
4 slices bacon, cut into thirds
2 Tbs (30 ml) soy sauce

Wrap the shrimp in the bacon pieces and fasten with toothpicks. Place on a baking sheet and drizzle the soy sauce over them. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 15 to 20 minutes, until the bacon is cooked to the degree of doneness you prefer. Makes 12, to serve 4 to 6 as an appetizer.

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The bagna cauda (hot bath, or sauce) can be found in all parts of Italy, and are usually based on a hot sauce made of olive oil, garlic, and anchovies. This version from Italy's northernmost and westernmost region of Piedmont uses cream instead of olive oil. It is usually served as an appetizer in restaurants, although it does duty as a main course in many Italian homes.

Bagna Cauda

2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
8 anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) finely chopped garlic
Fresh vegetables of your choice, such as cucumbers, carrots, fennel, sweet bell peppers, celery, scallions, romaine lettuce, tomatoes, and mushrooms, cut into a size and shape suitable for dipping
Italian bread sticks or Italian bread

Simmer the cream over a low flame, uncovered, in a small saucepan for about 20 minutes, or until reduced to about half its original volume. In a fondue pot, or other flame proof enameled or earthenware casserole that fits over a candle warmer or electric hot tray, melt the butter over low heat. Add the anchovies and the garlic and stir for about 1 minute. Add the reduced cream and bring the sauce to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Do not let the sauce boil. Serve immediately with the cold raw vegetables and the bread sticks or Italian bread for dipping. If the butter and the cream separate at the table, recombine them using a wire whisk. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer, 3 to 4 as a main dish.

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Baked clams have become a standard in the Italian-American restaurant repertoire. So standard, in fact, that they have become something of a cliché and are usually represented by frozen, mass-produced little clods of garlic-flavored bread crumbs and rubber bands. Here is how the dish is properly done:

Baked Clams

2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) bread crumbs (preferably homemade)
1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) finely chopped parsley
3 Tbs (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
36 small clams such as cherrystones, shucked, 36 half shells reserved
2 Tbs (30 ml) lemon juice
4-6 Tbs (60-90 ml) butter, melted
Lemon wedges for garnish

Combine the garlic, bread crumbs, Parmesan, parsley, olive oil, salt, and pepper in a small bowl and stir to combine. Coarsely chop the clams and combine with the lemon juice in a separate bowl. Place the clam shells on a baking sheet, using a thin bed of rock salt to stabilize them if desired, and divide the chopped clams between them. Top with the bread crumb mixture and drizzle with the butter. Cook under a preheated broiler until the topping is golden brown and the clams are bubbling, about 2 minutes. Garnish with lemon wedges. Serves 4 to 6.

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Kibbe (also spelled kibbeh) is a Middle Eastern staple with as many variations as cooks. This version make a tasty and nutritious appetizer for cocktail parties or family gatherings.

Baked Kibbe

1 cup (250 ml) fine-grind (#1) or medium-grind (#2) bulgur (cracked wheat)
2 cups (500 ml) boiling water
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 lb (450 g) lean ground lamb
1 Tbs (15 ml) ground cumin
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground allspice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Pine nuts (pignoli) for garnish

Soak the bulgur in the water for 20 minutes. Drain if all the water is not absorbed. Combine with the remaining ingredients except the pine nuts and mix thoroughly. Spread into an 8-inch (20 cm) square baking pan and score the top in a diamond pattern with the tip of a knife. Place a pine nut in each section and bake in a preheated 375F (190C) oven until cooked and brown around the edges, about 20 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes before cutting along the score marks and serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 8 to 12 as an hors d'oeuvre, 6 to 8 as a first course.

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Here is an old-fashioned Southern dish that is often served with drinks, but it makes a quick and easy first course as well.

Beer Cheese

1-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped and mashed
1 cup (250 ml) beer
1 Tbs (15 ml) Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp (5 ml) hot sauce, or to taste
1 tsp (5 ml) dry mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) sharp cheddar cheese, grated

Whisk together the garlic, beer, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, mustard, salt, and pepper. Add the cheese 1 cup (250 ml) at a time and beat until smooth. Pack into a 2-cup bowl or crock, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. Serve with crackers. Serves 6 to 8.

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In this recipe I give relative quantities because you might want to make several of these, rolled into different shapes and coated with different nuts for variety.

Bleu Cheese Log

Equal parts by weight of:
Crumbled Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or other good quality bleu cheese
Grated cheddar cheese
Cream cheese, at room temperature

Plus:
Chopped walnuts, pecans, pistachios, cashews,
or whole toasted pine nuts (pignoli)
Paprika (optional)

Blend the cheeses with a fork until smooth. Roll into a log or ball and then roll in the chopped nuts to coat. As an alternative to the nut coating, sprinkle a generous amount of paprika on a piece of wax paper and roll the cheese mixture in it to coat. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Serve chilled with crackers.

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I don't believe I have ever eaten a potato I didn't like. Add a little sour cream and caviar, and this appetizer will get my attention every time. Please don't feel obligated to use expensive caviar unless you want to. The inexpensive whitefish and lumpfish varieties will still put this dish in a league of its own.

Boiled Potatoes with Caviar

Small red or new potatoes, 2 to 4 per person
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Sour cream
Caviar
Chopped fresh chives

Choose the smallest, most blemish-free potatoes you can. Boil until tender in enough salted water to cover. Drain and allow to cool. Cut each potato in half and place the cut side down on a tray or serving platter. Using the point of a paring knife or a melon baller, scoop out a small depression in the tops of the potato halves. Season with salt and pepper, being careful not to over salt because the caviar is salty. Spoon a small amount of sour cream into the depression and top with a small amount of caviar. Finish with the chopped chives.

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These savory little bites are quick and easy to prepare, and the recipe can easily be multiplied to accommodate the number of mouths involved.

Brazilian Onion Toasts

6 Tbs (90 ml) mayonnaise
1 Tbs (15 ml) Dijon-style mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 medium onion, peeled, cut into quarters, and sliced very thinly
8 thin slices white or whole wheat bread, crusts removed. 4 Tbs (60 ml) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Mix together the mayonnaise, mustard, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Combine 5 tablespoons of the mayonnaise mixture with the sliced onion. Spread the onion mixture on 4 slices of bread and top with the remaining bread. Spread the remaining mayonnaise mixture on the tops of the sandwiches and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. Cut each sandwich into quarters and place on a baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven until light golden brown, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer.

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You will need fresh, live clams for this recipe, and anyone who has ever cooked with them knows that they're sandy little creatures. Be sure to buy only clams that are tightly shut, or those that snap shut when tapped. Soak them in cold salty water (about 1/3 cup salt per gallon of water) overnight to remove as much of the sand as possible. I haven't given quantities for this recipes because it's so straightforward. Plan on 6 to 12 clams per person, depending on the size of the clams-and the person.

Broiled Clams

Cherrystone or similar small to medium clams, shucked and on the half shell
Worcestershire sauce
Hot sauce (optional)
Bacon cut into small pieces

Season the clams with a dash of Worcestershire sauce and optional hot sauce. Top each clam with a piece of bacon and arrange the clams on a baking sheet. A bed of crumpled aluminum foil or rock salt will help keep them steady. Broil under a preheated broiler until the bacon is cooked, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately.

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Astute readers will recognize this traditional British dish as Welsh rabbit with an egg on top.

Buck Rabbit

8 oz (225 g) grated sharp Cheddar cheese
1/4 cup (60 ml) brown ale, beer, or milk
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter at room temperature
1 tsp (5 ml) English mustard powder
A few drops Worcestershire sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4-6 thick slices bread, crusts removed, toasted
4-6 eggs, poached or fried

Mix together the cheese, ale, butter, mustard powder, Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper to make a thick paste. Place the pieces of toasted bread on a baking sheet and divide the cheese mixture among them. Place under a preheated broiler and cook until the cheese is melted and bubbling. Top each with an egg and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish is said to have originated in Buffalo, New York, when a harried bar manager threw together the meager items he had on hand in order to satisfy some hungry late-night customers. True or not, the dish is now available in every corner of the land and has become a modern American classic. Tradition dictates that they be served with celery sticks and blue cheese salad dressing. Common sense dictates that they also be served with plenty of napkins.

Buffalo Chicken Wings

25 to 30 chicken wings
Vegetable oil for deep frying
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
3 to 6 Tbs (45 to 90 ml) Louisiana hot sauce, Tabasco sauce, or hot sauce of your choice, or more to taste
6 to 8 ribs celery, cut into 3 inch (8 cm) pieces
Blue cheese dressing for dipping

Cut the wings in half at the "elbow," and remove and discard the tips. Deep fry in small batches in 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) of vegetable oil heated to 375F (190C) until the outsides are crisp and golden brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Melt the butter in a saucepan and combine with the hot sauce. Place the cooked wings in a large bowl and pour the sauce over them, tossing them to thoroughly coat with the sauce. Serve with celery sticks and blue cheese dressing. Serves 4 to 6.

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Before you write me slamming me for publishing such a simple recipe, please try this dish. You will be surprised at how well the crispy, spicy radishes go with the cool, creamy butter.

Buttered Radishes

Fresh radishes, cleaned and trimmed,
and cut into 'roses' if desired
Unsalted butter, chilled
Sea salt

Chill the radishes by soaking them in ice water for at least 30 minutes. Pack the butter into small bowls and chill in the refrigerator until firm, at least 30 minutes. Serve the sea salt in a small bowl or two. Invite your guests to spread the butter on the radishes and sprinkle with sea salt.

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Called "popcorn" because it can be eaten by the handful, this Cajun classic is usually made with crawfish tails, but fresh or frozen small shrimp may be used by those of us who aren't lucky enough to have access to that bayou delicacy.

Cajun Popcorn

2 eggs, beaten
1 1/4 cups (310 ml) milk
1 cup (250 ml) all-purpose flour
1 tsp (5 ml) each sugar, salt, freshly ground pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, and cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dried thyme
2 lbs (900 g) peeled crawfish tails or small shrimp
Vegetable oil for deep frying

Combine the eggs and milk in a small bowl. Combine the flour and seasonings in a large bowl and stir in the egg mixture. Let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Heat vegetable oil at a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) in a skillet over high heat until it reaches 350F (180C). Coat the crawfish in the batter a few at a time and fry in small batches until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes total, turning once or twice. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

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Serve this dish hot as a side dish to accompany fish or chicken, or at room temperature for an antipasto.

Caponata (Eggplant with Capers)

1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
2 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into thin strips
1-16 oz (450 g) can Italian plum tomatoes
4-6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
6 ribs celery with leaves, diced
1 tsp (5 ml) dried thyme leaves
1 medium eggplant (about 1 lb, 450 g), unpeeled, cubed
2 Tbs (30 ml) sugar
1/2 cup (125 ml) red wine vinegar
1 cup (250 ml) pitted green olives
1/4 cup (60 ml) capers, rinsed and drained
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the oil in a skillet over moderate heat. Add the onions and cook for 5 minutes. Add the peppers and cook an additional 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and garlic and simmer covered for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a separate skillet, heat 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the oil over moderate heat. Saute the celery for 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and add the thyme. In the skillet used for the celery heat 1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil and saute the eggplant for 5 minutes over moderate heat. Transfer the eggplant and celery to the tomato mixture. Simmer covered for 20 minutes. Add the sugar, vinegar, olives, and capers. Season with salt and pepper and simmer 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer.

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Sometime back in the '80s someone started calling any thinly-sliced raw meat "carpaccio" and we wound up with a whole bunch of tuna, duck, and salmon "carpaccios" on the menus of restaurants whose only goal is to follow every passing food fad. This matter got so out of hand that restaurants began specifying "beef carpaccio" to distinguish it from its inappropriate namesakes. (For the record, "beef carpaccio" is redundant because carpaccio is, by definition, thinly sliced raw beef.) Named for the Italian Renaissance painter Vittore Carpaccio because he used a palate of reds and whites, this dish is a genuine Italian classic... if you make it with beef.

Carpaccio

1/2 lb (225 g) beef fillet (filet mignon), in 1 piece
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste
Salt and freshly grated pepper to taste
3 Tbs (45 ml) capers, drained (optional)
3 Tbs (45 ml) finely chopped onion or scallion (optional)
Shaved Parmesan cheese (optional)
Lemon wedged for garnish

Wrap the beef tightly in plastic wrap and place in the freezer until very firm and almost frozen, about 1 hour. Slice as thinly as possible with a very sharp knife. The slices should be almost transparent, so flatten them by pounding them gently if you aren't able to slice them thinly enough. Arrange the slices on serving plates and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and add capers, chopped onion, or Parmesan curls if desired. Serve with lemon wedges. Serves 4 to 6.

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This traditional tapa from Catalonia illustrates how just a couple of simple ingredients can be transformed into something approaching pure kitchen magic. Use a hearty, dense country-style bread that is a couple of days past its prime for best results.

Catalonian Bread with Tomatoes (Pan amb Tomat)

1/2 cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, pressed through a garlic press or very finely chopped
4-6 thick slices of country-style bread, toasted
1-2 ripe tomatoes, halved
Salt to taste
Thinly sliced serrano or Prosciutto ham (optional)

Combine the olive oil and garlic in a small bowl. Rub the toasted bread with the tomato halves, squeezing juice and pulp onto the bread. Drizzle with the oil, sprinkle with salt, and top with a slice of ham if desired. Serves 4 to 6.

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This recipe from Peru is one of my favorites for this dish, which has regional counterparts (some spelled "seviche") over much of Latin America and the Caribbean. In Peru it is frequently accompanied by boiled sweet potatoes and corn-on-the-cob, but I have eliminated those for this appetizer version. And yes, before you write to ask, the fish is not cooked by heating, but rather by the acidity of the marinade. If your family is squeamish about "raw" fish, don't tell them. The seafood in this dish looks, tastes, and feels as though it has been cooked.

Ceviche

1 cup (250 ml) fresh lime juice
1 cup (250 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 Tbs (15 ml) hot pepper flakes (or to taste. I like it spicy) or hot red chilli peppers, finely chopped
2 red onions, thinly sliced and separated into rings
1 clove garlic, chopped very fine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) grey sole fillets cut into 1 in (2.5 cm) pieces (or substitute any other firm, white, mild flavored fish)
1 lb (450 g) scallops
1/2 cup (125 ml) parsley or cilantro, coarsely chopped
Lettuce leaves for garnish

Combine all the ingredients in a glass or ceramic dish or bowl. Metal may affect the flavor of the dish. If the marinade does not cover the fish, add more lime or lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate the dish for 3 hours, or until the fish is white and opaque, indicating that it has been "cooked" by the acidity of the marinade. Serve individual portions on a bed of lettuce. Although this is not traditionally done, it may be served with crackers or thin slices of French bread. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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My sources tell me that a dal (also spelled dhal) is any member of the legume family, and in India chick-peas (garbanzos), lentils, peas, kidney beans, and beans similar to black-eyed peas are all popular.

Chana Dal (Curried Chick-Peas)

1 cup chana dal (dried chick-peas or garbanzos), rinsed
1 tsp (5 ml) tea leaves
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
4 cups (1 L) plus 1 Tbs (15 ml) water
3 Tbs ghee or melted butter
1/2 tsp (2 ml) cumin seeds
1/4 cup (60 ml) finely chopped onions
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped ginger root
1/2 tsp (2 ml) turmeric
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground cumin
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground coriander
1/2 tsp garam masala
1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper (or to taste)
1 Tbs (15 ml) finely chopped fresh cilantro (coriander leaves)

Put the chick-peas in a bowl and add enough water to cover by at least 2 inches (5 cm). Allow to soak at room temperature for 12 hours or overnight. Drain the beans and place them in a heavy 3 to 4 quart (3-4 L) saucepan along with the tea leaves, salt, and 4 cups (1 L) of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat and simmer partially covered for 1 hour. In a separate 3 to 4 quart (3-4 L) saucepan heat the ghee over high heat until a drop of water flicked onto it boils instantly. Add the cumin seeds and stir for 30 seconds, then add the onions and ginger. Lower the heat to moderate and fry the mixture for 7 or 8 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft and golden brown. Do not allow the onions to burn. Stir in the turmeric, ground cumin and coriander, garam masala, cayenne, and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of water, and fry for 1 minute. Then add the chick-peas along with their cooking liquid bring to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot tightly, and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the chick-peas are tender but still mostly whole. Ladle the entire contents of the pot into a serving dish, sprinkle with the cilantro, and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

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Here is the appetizer I am most likely to order in a good Tex-Mex restaurant, and I like them so much that I frequently order them as a main course- never twice at the same meal, though. "Flauta" means "flute" in Spanish, so make sure these tightly rolled tacos are long and narrow like their namesake.

Chicken Flautas

3 Tbs (45 ml) butter
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) cooked chicken meat, shredded
2 Tbs (30 ml) picante sauce or salsa
12 corn tortillas
Vegetable oil for frying
Sour cream for garnish (optional)
Picante sauce or salsa for garnish (optional)
Guacamole for garnish (optional)

Heat the butter in a skillet over moderate heat and saute the onion and garlic until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the shredded chicken and salsa and simmer until heated through. Meanwhile, heat about 1/2 inch (1 cm) of vegetable oil in a skillet over moderate heat and, using tongs, fry each tortilla for about 3 to 5 seconds, just enough to soften them. Drain on paper towels and place about 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the chicken mixture on each tortilla, rolling them tightly to form thin, cigar-shaped rolls. Place seam side down in a shallow baking dish and bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven until crisp, about 20 minutes. Serves garnished with sour cream, salsa, and/or guacamole of desired. Makes 12 flautas to serve 4 to 6 as an appetizer, 3 to 4 as a main dish.

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I'm pretty sure that satay (also spelled "saté") is served in every restaurant in Southeast Asia. At least, if there is a restaurant that doesn't serve it, I never ate there. You can also use this recipe on skewered shrimp or thinly sliced beef or pork.

Chicken Satay (Malaysian Skewered Chicken with Spicy Peanut Sauce)

1 tsp (5 ml) finely chopped garlic
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground white pepper
2 Tbs (30 ml) soy sauce
1 Tbs (15 ml) dark molasses (treacle)
2 tsp (10 ml) fresh lime juice
2 lbs (900 g) boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs,
cut into 1-inch (2 cm) cubes
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil

Combine the garlic, salt and pepper in the bottom of a deep bowl and with the back of a spoon mash them to a paste. Mix in the soy sauce, molasses and lime juice. Add the chicken cubes and toss with a spoon until they are evenly coated. Marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Remove the chicken from the marinade and thread it tightly, 4 or 5 pieces at a time, on small skewers (preferably bamboo skewers). Brush the oil evenly over the chicken. Cook directly over hot coals for 5 to 10 minutes, turning occasionally, until the chicken is crisp and brown. Serve at once, with the meat still on the skewers, accompanied by katjang sauce. Serves 4 to 6.

Katjang Sauce (Spicy Peanut Sauce)

2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) finely chopped shallots or scallions (white part only)
1 tsp (5 ml) finely chopped garlic
2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock
1/2 cup (125 ml) shelled peanuts (preferably Spanish peanuts) finely ground in an electric blender
2 tsp (10 ml) soy sauce
1 tsp (5 ml) dark molasses (treacle)
1 tsp (5 ml) lime juice
1/4 tsp (1 ml) finely grated ginger root
Finely chopped hot chilies or cayenne pepper, to taste

Heat the oil in a heavy skillet and cook the shallots and garlic 3 to 4 minutes, until tender but not brown. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the ground peanuts, soy sauce, molasses, lime juice, ginger, and chilies or cayenne. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Allow to cool slightly before serving.

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This traditional Mexican favorite is probably the ancestor of the ubiquitous Tex-Mex nachos served in every fern bar and sporting venue in the country. After tasting this dish I'm sure you'll agree that the modern version has little to offer in comparison.

Chilaquiles

1/4 cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
15-18 4-inch (10 cm) corn tortillas, cut into
1/2-inch (1 cm) strips
1 can (10 oz, 280 g) tomatillos (Mexican green tomatoes)
1 small onion, chopped
2-3 serrano chilies
3-4 sprigs cilantro (fresh coriander)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) grated Monterey jack or other mild white cheese
1/2 cup (125 ml) beef stock or water

Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and fry the tortilla strips a few at a time until crisp but not browned, adding more oil if needed. Drain on paper towels. Combine the tomatillos with their liquid, onion, chilies, and cilantro in an electric blender or food processor and process until smooth. Cook the puree in the remaining oil in the skillet for 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat. Place about a third of the sauce in the bottom of a lightly greased baking dish, top with half the tortilla strips and half the cheese. Repeat. Add the beef stock and bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 30 minutes. Serves 8 to 10 as an appetizer.

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The name translates literally as "chili with cheese," and it's a popular dip at restaurants and parties all over the USA. Serve it with corn chips, sliced French bread, or fresh raw vegetables.

Chili con Queso

2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1-2 jalape? peppers, seeded and finely chopped, or to taste
2 1/2 cups (625 ml) grated Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese

Heat the butter in a heavy skillet over moderate heat and saute the onion and garlic until tender but now brown. Stir in the remaining ingredients and cook on the lowest setting until the cheese is completely melted, stirring occasionally.

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You can change this recipe to make spring rolls simply by substituting the more delicate spring roll wrappers for the egg roll wrappers.

Chinese Egg Rolls

For the filling:
3 Tbs (45 ml) peanut or vegetable oil
1/2 lb (225 g) ground pork
1/2 lb (225 g) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and finely chopped
1/2 lb (225 g) fresh bean sprouts
4 ribs celery, finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) soy sauce
1 Tbs (15 ml) rice wine
1/2 tsp (2 ml) sugar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 Tbs (15 ml) cornstarch (cornflour) mixed with
2 Tbs (30 ml) cold water

1 lb (450 g) egg roll wrappers
3 cups (750 ml) peanut of vegetable oil for deep-frying

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat. Saute the pork just until it looses its color. Add the remaining ingredients except the cornstarch mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until the shrimp have turned pink and the liquid boils. Stir in the cornstarch mixture and cook until the cornstarch becomes clear and the liquid has thickened. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Shape about 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the cool filling mixture into an oblong "sausage" shape and place diagonally on one of the egg roll wrappers. Fold one corner of the egg roll wrapper over the filling, and fold the adjacent corners towards the center. Moisten the remaining corner of the wrapper with a finger dipped in water and roll the filling to form a tight bundle. Repeat with the remaining filling and wrappers. Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet until the surface shimmers, about 375F (190C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Fry the egg rolls 5 or 6 at a time until golden brown on all sides, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and repeat with the remaining egg rolls. Serve as soon as possible, or keep warm in a 250F (120C) oven until ready to serve. Makes about 16 egg rolls.

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I used to have to buy my Chinese five-spice powder in Asian specialty shops-or make my own-but now it is available from all of the major herb and spice producers in any American supermarket.

Chinese Five-Spice Eggs (Wu Xiang o Dan)

12 eggs at room temperature
5 bags (about 5 Tbs, 75 ml) black tea such as
Orange Pekoe or China Black
1 cup (250 ml) soy sauce
2 Tbs (30 ml) Chinese five-spice powder

Place the eggs in a pot with enough cold water to cover by about 2 inches (5 cm) and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the eggs one at a time with a slotted spoon, crack the shells all over by striking the eggs gently with the back of a spoon, and return the eggs to the pot. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer covered for 2 hours, adding more water if necessary. Drain and serve warm or cold. Serves 6 to 12.

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Salt and Pepper Shrimp is one of the items I frequently order in Chinese restaurants, and this simplified version makes a wonderful finger food for cocktail parties.

Chinese Salt and Pepper Shrimp

1 1/2 lbs (675 g) large shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tsp (10 ml) salt
2 tsp (10 ml) garlic powder
1 tsp (5 ml) freshly ground pepper
2 Tbs (30 ml) cornstarch (cornflour)
3 Tbs (45 ml) vegetable oil

Combine the shrimp, salt, garlic powder, and pepper in a bowl, tossing to combine well. Marinate refrigerated for 1 to 2 hours. Toss with the cornstarch. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat and fry the shrimp in small batches until done, about 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8.

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These little meat-filled dumplings have become increasingly popular as dim-sum restaurants pop up around the world.

Chinese Steamed Pork Dumplings (Shao-Mai)

1 lb (450 g) ground pork
1 Tbs (15 ml) rice wine
1 Tbs (15 ml) soy sauce
1 tsp (5 ml) sugar
1 Tbs (15 ml) cornstarch
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 leaves Napa cabbage (Chinese cabbage, celery
cabbage), finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) finely chopped bamboo shoots
1/2 lb (225 g) 3-inch (8 cm) round wonton or shao-mai wrappers

Combine the pork, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, cornstarch, salt, and pepper in a bowl and stir to combine thoroughly. Add the Napa cabbage and bamboo shoots, stirring to combine. Place a wonton wrapper in the palm of your hand, cupping it loosely. Place 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the filling in the center and gather the sides of the wrapper around the filling tightly, allowing it to pleat naturally, while pressing the top of the filling to keep it inside the wrapper. Squeeze the center of the wrapper to make a slightly hour-glass shape, and press the bottom of the wrapper to make it flat so it will stand upright. Repeat with the remaining filling and wrappers. Place on a plate slightly smaller in diameter than the pot you plan to steam them in. Add about 2 inches (5 cm) of water to a steamer pot and bring to a boil. Place the plate with the dumplings on the steamer rack, cover tightly, and steam for 30 minutes. Serve the dumplings directly from the plate you steamed them on, placed on top of another larger plate. Makes about 2 dozen dumplings.

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It's hard for me to imagine starting a meal in a good deli with anything other than this classic Jewish dish.

Chopped Liver

1 large onion, chopped
3 Tbs (45 ml) chicken fat or vegetable oil
1/2 lb (250 g) chicken livers
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and finely chopped

Fry the onion in the chicken fat in a saute pan over low heat, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden. Let cool. Season the livers with salt and pepper and place them on a baking sheet covered with aluminum foil. Broil or grill, turning once, until the livers are firm and have changed color, and let them cool. Combine the livers and onion in an electric food processor and process until coarsely chopped. Add the chopped egg, reserving 3 tablespoons (45 ml) to be used as garnish, and mix by hand with the liver mixture. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, and place chopped liver mixture in a serving bowl. Smooth the surface with a small spatula or the back of a spoon, and sprinkle the reserved chopped egg on top. Serve with slices of rye bread, crackers, pita, or French bread. Serves 4 to 6.

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Clams Casino were developed at the Narragansett Pier Casino restaurant in Rhode Island in 1917, or so the story goes. Since then they have appeared on restaurant menus all over the country.

Clams Casino

2 dozen raw cherrystone clams on the half shell
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter at room temperature
1/4 cup (60 ml) finely chopped green bell pepper (capsicum)
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped shallots
2 Tbs (30 ml) finely chopped pimientos
1 Tbs (15 ml) lemon juice
4 slices bacon, partially cooked and cut into 6 pieces

Arrange the clams on a layer of rock salt (to prevent them from tipping) on a large baking sheet. Mix the butter, bell pepper, shallots, pimientos, and lemon juice until combined and divide among the clams. Top each with a piece of bacon and bake in a preheated 450F (230C) oven until the bacon is crisp, about 6 minutes. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

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I have had plenty of crab cakes that tasted exactly like big lumps of fried bread crumbs, and I know you have too. The secret to great crab cakes is to use as little bread crumbs as possible, as in this recipe.

Crab Cakes

1 lb (450 g) lump crab meat, picked over
4 scallions (spring onions), green parts only, chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
2-4 Tbs (30-60 ml) dry bread crumbs
1 Tbs (15 ml) chopped fresh parsley, basil, or cilantro (coriander leaves)
2 tsp (10 ml) Old Bay or other seafood seasoning
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 egg, lightly beaten
All-purpose flour for dredging
1/4 cup (60 ml) vegetable or olive oil

Combine the crab meat, scallions, mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the bread crumbs, herb, and seasonings in a mixing bowl and toss gently to combine. Carefully fold in the egg with a rubber spatula until the mixture just clings together, adding more bread crumbs if necessary. Form into 4 to 6 patties and refrigerate for 30 minutes to overnight. Dredge lightly in flour. Heat the oil in a large skillet-preferably non-stick-over moderate heat and fry the crab cakes until crisp and browned, about 4 minutes per side. Serve with tartar sauce. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish hails from the southern Malabar coast, which is renowned throughout India for the abundance of seafood. As with many Indian dishes, this is traditionally quite spicy. Feel free to adjust the spiciness to suit your taste.

Crab Malabar (Kekada Chat)

1 lb (450 g) cooked crab meat, fresh or frozen and thawed
(use Alaska King crab meat if available)
3 Tbs (45 ml) vegetable oil
2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp (10 ml) paprika
1/2 tsp (2 ml) thyme
1/2 tsp (2 ml) fennel seeds, crushed
1/4-1/2 tsp (1-2 ml) cayenne pepper, or to taste
3 cups (750 ml) coarsely diced fresh tomatoes
Salt to taste
2 scallions (spring onions), green and white parts, finely chopped
Lettuce leaves for garnish
Chopped cilantro (coriander leaves) for garnish

Pick over the crab meat and cut into 1-inch (3 cm) pieces. Heat the oil in a large skillet with a lid over moderate heat and cook the onions, stirring frequently, until golden but not brown. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Add the paprika, thyme, fennel seeds, and cayenne and cook for 2 more minutes. Add 1 cup (25 ml) of the tomatoes. Lower the heat and simmer covered for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and gently fold in the crab meat. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. Immediately before serving, add salt to taste and fold in the remaining tomatoes and chopped scallions. Serve on a bed of lettuce, garnished with the chopped cilantro. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

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Quesadillas are a Mexican classic that are becoming more widely available in Mexican restaurants in the US. They are traditionally fried or grilled, but my version is easier and less attention-demanding.

Crab Quesadillas

4 flour tortillas
1 Tbs soft butter
1 cup shredded queso fresco, Monterey jack, or mild flavored, semi-soft cheese.
1-6 oz (170 g) can crab meat, drained and picked over
Hot sauce (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Grease a large baking sheet with the butter. Rub the tortillas on the greased surface so as to lightly grease one side of each tortilla. With the tortillas greased-side-down on the baking sheet, place one quarter of the shredded cheese on one half of each tortilla. Top this with the crab, a dash or two of the optional hot sauce, and salt and pepper to taste. Fold each tortilla over and bake in a 350F (180C) oven for about 5 minutes, until the bottom is golden brown. Flip the quesadillas over and cook an additional 5 minutes, or until the other side is golden brown and the cheese is melted. Cut into wedges and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer.

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The honey makes a surprising contrast to the tangy cheese in this recipe. Make these once and I'm sure you'll make them often.

Crostini with Gorgonzola and Honey

French bread (baguette)
Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
Honey

Slice the bread diagonally, place the slices on a baking sheet and toast both sides under a preheated broiler. Sprinkle with the Gorgonzola and drizzle with a little honey. Place under the broiler and cook just until the cheese begins to melt, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

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This Danish variation on bacon and eggs is frequently served as a breakfast or brunch dish, as well as an appetizer as we do here. It is often cooked entirely over low heat on top of the stove, but the baking method helps to prevent the bottom from burning. This dish is called "flaeskeaeggekage" in Danish, and only people experienced with the Danish language should attempt to pronounce it in order to avoid possible injury.

Danish Bacon and Egg Cake (Flaeskeaeggekage)

12 slices bacon
6-8 eggs
3 Tbs (45 ml) all-purpose flour
2 cups (500 ml) milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh chives for garnish (optional)

Fry the bacon in a 10-inch (25 cm) skillet until crisp. Drain on paper towels and crumble. Discard the fat in the skillet and place half the crumbled bacon in the bottom. Beat together the eggs, flour, milk, salt, and pepper, and pour into the skillet. Bake in a preheated 375F (190C) oven until set, 30 to 40 minutes. Garnish with the remaining bacon and the optional chives. Cut into wedges to serve. Serves 4 to 6.

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This dish, one of my family's favorites, is an essential part of any Scandinavian meal in my mind.

Danish Cured Salmon (Gravlax)

2 lbs (900 g) fresh salmon fillet
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh dill
1/4 cup (60 ml) salt
1/4 cup (60 ml) sugar
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground white pepper
1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground allspice

Rinse the salmon and dry it thoroughly with paper towels. Place in a glass baking dish and sprinkle with half the dill. Combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and stir to combine. Sprinkle half the mixture over the salmon. Turn the salmon over, sprinkle with the remaining salt mixture, and top with the remaining dill. Cover with plastic wrap, place a flat plate or pot lid on top, and place several cans of food on top for weight. Refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours. To serve, drain the salmon and cut diagonally into thin slices. Serves 12 as an appetizer.

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Serve this rich Pâté thinly sliced with toast and dill gherkins as an appetizer, or make a Danish open-faced sandwich (smorrebrod) and serve it as a luncheon dish.

Danish Liver Pâté (Leverpostej)

2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
2 Tbs (30 ml) all-purpose flour
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
1 cup (250 ml) milk
1 lb (450 g) fresh pork liver, chopped
3/4 lb (335 g) pork fat or lard, chopped
1 onion, coarsely chopped
4 anchovy fillets. drained
2 eggs
1/2 tsp (2 ml) allspice
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground cloves
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3/4 lb (335 g) thinly sliced bacon

Heat the butter in a saucepan over moderate heat and stir in the flour. Cook for 2 minutes and stir in the cream and milk. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Combine the sauce with the remaining ingredients except the bacon in a large mixing bowl and toss to combine. Process in batches in an electric blender or food processor until smooth. Line the bottom and sides of a 1-quart (1 L) loaf pan with the bacon strips, overlapping them slightly and letting the ends hang over the sides of the pan. Pour the liver mixture into the pan and fold the ends of the bacon strips over to cover the top. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and place in a large deep baking dish. Fill the baking dish with enough water to come halfway up the side of the loaf pan and bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 1 1/2 hours. Cool on a wire rack before refrigerating for at least 2 hours. Serves 12 to 16.

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These little meat balls are frequently served at parties and other festive occasions. The Dutch usually serve them with mustard for dipping, and you might want to serve them with a variety of dips, including mustards, chutneys, and barbecue sauces.

Dutch Meatball Hors d'Oeuvre (Bitterballen)

4 Tbs (60 ml) butter
1/2 lb (250 g) ground beef or veal
1/4 cup (60 ml) finely diced carrot
1/2 cup (60 ml) finely chopped onion
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
A grating of fresh nutmeg
1 Tbs (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs (20 ml) finely chopped parsley
5 Tbs (75 ml) all-purpose flour
1 cup (250 ml) beef broth or milk
1/2 cup (125 ml) dry bread crumbs
1 egg, beaten with 1 tsp (5 ml) water
Oil for deep frying

Heat one tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat and cook the meat, carrots, and onions until the meat is browned and the carrots are tender. Drain the meat in a colander, then place in a mixing bowl. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice, and parsley and stir to combine. Set the meat mixture aside. Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of butter in a saucepan over moderate heat and stir in the flour to make a roux. Cook this for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the beef broth or milk. Continue heating, stirring constantly, until the sauce boils and becomes quite thick. Combine the sauce with the meat mixture, stirring to combine them thoroughly, and chill this mixture for at least two hours in the refrigerator, until it has become solid. When the mixture has solidified, roll it into balls about 1 inches (2.5 cm) in diameter, using your hands. Roll the balls in the bread crumbs, then in the egg and water mixture, then in the bread crumbs again. Fry a few at a time in a deep fryer with at least 2 inches (5 cm) of oil at 375F (190C) until golden (about 2 to 3 minutes). Drain on paper towels and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8.

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This dish goes by several names, including "Poor man's caviar" and "Provençal caviar." The traditional recipe is loaded with oil, but this recipe gets its flavor from roasting the eggplant.

Eggplant "Caviar"

2 medium eggplants, about 1 lb (450 g) each
4 Tbs (60 ml) lemon juice
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh parsley
4 garlic cloves, crushed through a press or chopped very fine
6 to 12 drops of Tabasco sauce (or to taste)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Wrap the eggplants in aluminum foil and bake in a 400F (200C) oven for one hour, until very soft. Unwrap carefully and allow the eggplants to cool before handling. Scrape the softened eggplant out of the skins and place in a food processor or blender. Add the remaining ingredients and puree until smooth. Transfer to a serving bowl and chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve cold as a dip with crackers or crudités, or as a spread on melba toast or thinly sliced bread. Serves 8 as an appetizer.

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In the US, "eggy bread" is known as French toast and it is almost exclusively a breakfast item. The British are more likely to add a savory or sweet filling and are happy to serve it at just about any time of day. This savory version makes an excellent appetizer, mid-morning, or late-night snack.

Eggy Bread with Cheese

3 eggs
1/4 cup (60 ml) milk
3 Tbs (45 ml) chopped fresh herbs such as parsley,
chives, chervil, or basil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 slices bread, crusts trimmed
4 slices Cheddar cheese
About 2 Tbs (30 ml) butter

Whisk together the eggs, milk, herbs, salt, and pepper and place the mixture in a shallow pan or pie plate. Make sandwiches with the bread and cheese and slice each in half diagonally. Dip both sides of the sandwiches in the egg mixture and fry in the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat until golden brown on both sides. Serve immediately. Serves 2 to 4.

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Use pink lentils for this dish if you can find them. They won't make a difference in the flavor of the dish, but they will give it the traditional appearance.

Egyptian Lentils (Fool Mudammas)

1 cup (250 ml) dried lentils
3 cups (750 ml) water
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Lettuce leaves and chopped scallions (spring onions) for garnish

Combine the lentils and water in a pot over moderate heat and bring to
a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 1 hour. Drain and
refrigerate the lentils until chilled. Add the olive oil, lemon
juice, salt, and pepper before serving. Serve on a bed of lettuce and
garnish with chopped scallions. Serves 4 to 6.

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I chose this recipe for two reasons. First, it is possibly my single, most favorite dish in the whole world. Second, because the first time I published it I received a surprising number of email messages applauding me for being so bold as to offer up a recipe for (brace yourselves) snails. One reader, a retired chef with impressive credentials, told me I had got it "just right." So, here it is.

Escargots a la Bourguignonne

12 Tbs (180 ml) unsalted butter
1 1/2 Tbs (23 ml) shallots, finely chopped
1 Tbs (15 ml) garlic, finely chopped
1/2 Tbs (8 ml) parsley, finely chopped
2 tsp (10 ml) salt
1/2 tsp (5 ml) freshly ground black pepper
24 canned snails*, rinsed and drained

*Canned escargots (snails) can be bought, complete with empty shells for serving, in most supermarkets in the US.
In a small bowl mix the butter, shallots, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper until the butter is soft and the ingredients are thoroughly combined. Put about 1/4 tablespoon (4 ml) of the butter in each shell, followed by a snail, and then another 1/4 tablespoon (4 ml) of butter. Place on individual oven-proof serving dishes and bake in a 400F (200C) oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until the butter begins to bubble. Serve with crusty French bread (baguette) for sopping up the sauce. Serves 4 to 6.

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The Portuguese are justifiably proud of their local ham presunto, which is virtually unavailable outside of that country. Italian prosciutto, which is very similar in flavor and method of curing, makes an excellent substitute.

Figs with Ham (Figos com Presunto)

4 to 6 large, ripe, fresh figs
1/2 lb (250 g) thinly sliced prosciutto
4 to 6 tsp (20 to 30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground pepper to taste

Wash the figs well and remove the stems. Carefully slice the figs from the stem to about 1/4 inch (5 ml) of the bottom, so that the pieces are still attached and can be splayed out in the form of a flower. Make 4 slices to form 8 "petals." Arrange 5 or 6 slices of prosciutto on each serving plate in a radiating design, like the spokes on a wheel. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with black pepper. Place a fig in the center of each plate, spreading out the "petals" to give an attractive appearance. Serves 4 to 6.

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This is the recipe my family has used for more than 30 years. We have it once a year on Christmas Eve, and often several times in between. It is often served as an appetizer in its native Switzerland, but we usually make it the main dish. I chose it for our "Spirited Dishes" theme because, unlike most dishes in which wine is used only to add some flavor, it actually acts as the cooking liquid in this dish. The addition of kirsch makes it doubly spirited. For maximum flavor and authenticity, use imported cheeses, wine, and kirsch if possible.

Fondue Neuchateloise

1/2 lb (225 g) Gruyere cheese, shredded
1/2 lb (225 g) Emmentaler cheese, shredded
1 Tbs (15 ml) cornstarch (cornflour)
2 cups (500 ml) dry white wine (Neuchatel if possible)
1 clove garlic, peeled and bruised with the flat of a knife
2 Tbs (30 ml) kirsch (kirschwasser)
A grating of fresh nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 large crusty bread such as French or Italian, cut into
1-inch (3 cm) cubes

Toss the shredded cheeses and cornstarch together in a bowl until thoroughly combined. Combine the wine and garlic in a 2-quart (2 L) fondue pot or any flame-proof dish and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes before removing and discarding the garlic. Lower the heat so the wine barely simmers and add the cheese mixture a handful at a time, stirring constantly with a fork and letting each handful of cheese melt completely before adding another. When all the cheese has been added and the fondue is smooth, stir in the kirsch, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Place the fondue dish over an alcohol burner in the center of the table and serve with cubed bread. Traditionally, each diner spears a cube of bread with a long fondue fork and dips it in the cheese mixture to coat it completely before eating. Fondue aficionados know that allowing a crust of burned cheese to form on the bottom of the pot results in a treat which some consider the best part of the meal. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer, or 4 to 6 as a main dish.

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Meat pies are popular all over the British Isles, and this is how they are made in the Scottish town of Forfar where they call their pies "bridies." These are often served as a main dish or one-dish meal, but here we make them smaller than usual to serve as an appetizer or even as a cocktail snack. Unlike most meat pies, this filling is added to the pastry raw, allowing the dough to absorb all the cooking juices as it bakes.

Forfar Bridies

1 lb (450 g) beef steak such as rib eye, Porterhouse, or sirloin, trimmed of fat and cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) cubes
1 large onion, very finely chopped
1/2 cup (125 ml) shredded beef suet (traditional) or cold butter cut into small pieces
3 Tbs (45 ml) chopped chives
1/2 tsp (2 ml) dry mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Pastry dough for 2 to 3 8-inch pie crusts, prepared or your favorite recipe
1 egg beaten with
1 Tbs (15 ml) water

Combine the beef, onion, suet, chives, mustard, salt, and pepper in a bowl and toss to combine. Cut 3- to 4-inch (7-10 cm) circles from the pastry dough. Divide the beef mixture between the pastry circles, placing it on one half of the center and leaving about 1/2 inch (1 cm) rim for sealing. Moisten the edges of the pastry dough with a little water and fold the dough over the filling to make semicircles. Crimp the edges attractively, brush with the egg mixture, make a small hole in the top of each pie, and place on a lightly greased baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 6 to 8.

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Everyone has heard of Pâté de foie gras, in which the livers of fattened geese become heaven to the taste buds. The trouble is that foie gras is difficult to get outside of France, so this version uses chicken livers.

French Chicken Liver Pâté (Pâté de Foie de Volaille)

1 lb (500 g) chicken livers, trimmed of fat and discolored parts, rinsed and drained
1 onion, peeled and quartered
3/4 cup (180 ml) melted butter
1/4 cup (60 ml) grated onion
2 Tbs (30 ml) Cognac or other good quality brandy
1 1/2 tsp (7 ml) salt
1 1/2 tsp (7 ml) dry mustard
1/2 tsp (2 ml) freshly grated pepper
1/4 tsp (1 ml) mace

Place the livers and onion quarters in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook covered for 20 minutes. Drain well and discard the onion. Grind the liver three times in a meat grinder, or process in en electric food processor until very smooth. Do not use an electric blender. Add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Pack firmly into a 2 cup (500 ml) bowl or mold (do not grease), and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or overnight. Serve in the mold, or remove from the mold by rapping sharply on a cutting board and inverting onto a serving plate. Makes about 2 cups, to serve 12 to 18 as hors d'oeuvre.

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I happen to live about 15 miles from where the movie "Fried Green Tomatoes" was filmed, and there is indeed a Whistle Stop Cafe that serves fried green tomatoes, although it was opened after the filming. Even so, those of us who remember the movie avoid ordering the barbecue. This recipe differs slightly from the traditional in that the tomatoes are deep-fried, which is the secret to keeping the coating on the tomatoes rather than the bottom of a skillet.

Fried Green Tomatoes

4 medium-sized green tomatoes, sliced 1/4 inch (5 mm) thick
1/2 cup (125 ml) buttermilk
2 eggs
1/2 tsp (2 ml) salt
1/2 tsp (2 ml) freshly ground black pepper
About 1/2 cup (125 ml) flour seasoned with salt and pepper to taste
Vegetable oil for deep frying

In a large bowl combine the buttermilk, eggs, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Put the tomato slices in this mixture, toss to coat, and let sit at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes. Dip each slice of tomato in the seasoned flour mixture and fry, a few at a time, in a deep fryer with 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) of oil that has been heated to 350F (180C). Fry for 3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown. Serves 4 to 6.

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Here we go with a name thing again. I just know I'm going to get email saying "why did you have to call it 'squid'?" or "couldn't you have called it something else?" Yes, you can call it "calamari" if you're in Italy, "calamares" if your waiter speaks Spanish, or "kalamarakia" if you're dining on Crete. By any other name, it's still squid, and it's one of my favorites.

Fried Squid

Vegetable oil for deep frying
4 lbs (1800 g) small squid, cleaned and cut into 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick rings
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup (250 ml) flour
3 lemons, cut lengthwise into wedges

In a heavy 10 to 12 inch (25 to 30 cm) skillet, heat 1 to 2 inches (2 to 5 cm) of oil until hot but not smoking, or until it reaches a temperature of 375F (190C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Wash the squid under cold running water and pat them completely dry with paper towels. Sprinkle the squid liberally with salt and pepper. Pour the flour into a shallow bowl (a pie plate is perfect) and drop the squid into the flour, a small handful at a time. Toss to coat thoroughly and shake the squid in a small sieve held over the flour to remove the excess. Drop the squid into the hot oil (CAREFULLY) and fry for about 2 minutes, until they turn a light golden brown. As each batch is done, transfer them with a slotted spoon to a baking sheet covered with two or three layers of paper towels, and keep warm in a preheated 200F (90C) oven while you fry the remaining batches. Mound the squid on a heated platter and garnish with the lemon wedges. Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer, 4 to 6 as a main dish.

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This popular dish is traditionally made with German Handkase or "hand cheese," so named because of the irregular, hand-shaped rounds or cylinders it is formed into. It is made from soured cow's milk which gives it a sharp flavor and, according to some, an overpowering aroma. If Handkase isn't available from your favorite cheese shop, substitute Liederkranz or Tilsit.

German Cheese "with Music" (Kase "mit Musik")

3-4 Tbs (45-60 ml) olive oil
3-4 Tbs (45-60 ml) red wine vinegar
4-6 thick slices (about 1/2x2x4 inches (1x5x10 cm)) Handkase, Liederkranz, or Tilsit cheese
4-6 Tbs (60-90 ml) finely chopped onion
4-6 slices rye bread with caraway seeds
Butter

Whisk together the oil and vinegar and pour over the cheese in a small bowl. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours, turning once or twice. Drain the cheese and place on serving plates accompanied by the chopped onion, bread, and butter. To eat, spread the butter on the bread, spread the cheese on top, and sprinkle with chopped onions. Serves 4 to 6.

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This traditional German appetizer is well known outside of Germany and is usually called by its German name, or simply "rollmops" in English. Seek out imported Matjes herrings, available in jars in the refrigerated section of finer supermarkets, for the most authentic results.

German Herring Rolls (Rollmopse)

12 salt herring fillets, preferably Matjes herring
2 cups (500 ml) cider vinegar
2 cups (500 ml) cold water
5 juniper berries
5 whole allspice
3 whole cloves
8 whole black peppercorns
1 bay (laurel) leaf
1/4 cup Dusseldorf or Dijon mustard
1/4 cup (60 ml) capers
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 large dill pickles
Thinly sliced onion for garnish
Parsley sprigs for garnish

Soak the herring fillets in enough cold water to cover for at least 12 hours in the refrigerator, replacing the water two or three times. Combine the vinegar, water, juniper berries, allspice, cloves, peppercorns and bay leaf in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer for 5 minutes, then allow to come to room temperature. Drain and pat the herring fillets dry, and lay them skin-side down on a work surface. Spread a teaspoon (5 ml) of mustard over each one, then scatter the capers and onion over the mustard. Cut the dill pickles lengthwise into quarters, and then in half crosswise. Place a wedge of pickle at the narrow end of each fillet and roll the fillets up into small, thick cylinders. Secure the rolled fillets with one or two toothpicks. Pack the rolled fillets on their sides in a glass dish in one or two layers-do not use a metal container. Pour the marinade over the herring, cover the dish with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 5 to 6 days before serving. To serve, arrange them on a platter or on individual serving plates and garnish with onion rings and parsley. Serves 6 to 8.

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